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Tuesday, September 2, 2014


Since I’ve come to Sweden, people have been subtly sympathetic about the food options available all the way up here in Scandinavia. Moving from a famed foodie paradise, as Taiwan is – to almost any place would be seen as a downgrade; much less Sweden. Although NOMA in Copenhagen has taken the top spots for world’s best restaurant for years now, and tales of Nordic inventiveness have been taking the “fine dining” scene by storm, Swedish cuisine that hasn’t been made readily accessible around the world in the way that Italian, Spanish, and even British cuisine has. I do see reasons why – besides having relatively limited varieties in say, cheeses and meats, there is instead a huge range of cold seafood concoctions (mackerel in mayonnaise, fish roe squeezed out of a tube) that even the most enthusiastic sashimi-lovers (yes!) would refuse to adapt into their diet. The Swedish knäckebröd, large round circles of cracker-bread – are a common sight at meal-time here. It looks – and tastes – like cardboard lightly baked in the oven for a few hours.

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And yet, I still remain a relatively content foodie, living here – thought my wallet is certainly crying out to be fed. Sweden has amazing dairy. I could go on and on about this. After years of paying out 150 NT for a tiny tub of sour cream in Taipei, can you blame me when I go to the local ICA (the main grocery store chain here) and see rows and rows of yogurts, and creams, arranged by fat percentage? The milk, or mjölk – here is a standard 3% fat; only mellanmjolk is a 1.5%.

The Swedes also love their candy and sweets. Sweet fact- it’s a national tradition that children are only allowed to eat candy on Saturdays. There are several of these nation-wide eating habits that almost every Swedish family has taken part in, which I find to be random, but quirky. There’s taco Friday (the Swedes are super into tacos – random!), pizza Sundays (where everyone is too lazy to cook so pizza sales skyrocket) and the aforementioned candy on Saturdays.
Not so sweet fact – honestly, most of Swedish adaptations of well, any cuisine besides their own – is pretty shite. It’s like they take every bold, flavorful cuisine and just make it totally bland. Tacos, pizza, Chinese food, falafel – nothing is safe, nothing is sacred. I’ve vowed to never succumb to eating Chinese food in Sweden, no matter how desperate I get. And at $20 USD / bowl for noodles that I could slurp down for $3 in Taiwan – is that so ridiculous of a pact?
Swedish foods I love – kanelbullar. Um – blueberries? Seriously, this might be the end of this list.

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Swedish university students cook for themselves. Many of my corridor-mates, even the 18-year olds on their first venture out from home, can be found in our communal kitchen on Sunday nights bulk preparing their meals for the week. It’s perhaps a skill borne out of financial, rather than health, consciousness. You are able to buy cheaper meals at the “student nations” –but  most people seem to cook for themselves. Although Sweden is famed for being extraordinarily expensive, I’ve found that groceries don’t run more than $30-35 USD a week / if you don’t buy any meat, that is.

five year plan / updated


One of the embarrassing things about having a blog is that, once in a while - no matter how much you attempt to leave it behind, you find these spectres of the past, floating about on the Internet. They come back to haunt you, little snippets from your former self - like ghostly shells left behind, after molting. However, the good thing is that you have this sort of time capsule, in the form of electronically-stored thoughts, dreams, wishes. You can look back wistfully - or gain increased motivation, to finally do whatever it is you were young and foolish enough to think you could do, back then.

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I was looking at completely closing down my former GOOD DAY, TAIPEI wordpress blog - when I discovered that I hadn't cleaned my post queue as thoroughly as I had imagined. A post: WHAT'S YOUR 5- YEAR PLAN? Written over a year ago, when I had just turned 22. Not that long ago - I'm only 23, and I won't turn 24 until next year. But I thought I'd be spending my birthday in France - not in Hong Kong, and I thought that I'd head to grad school in the States, next. That is certainly no longer in the works. At the speed things go around here, it's ages. I thought it'd be fun to compare what I wrote then, to how things stand now. A sort of vision statement, for every year.

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(One) 2013-2014: This will be my final year at National Taiwan University, and also my final year of living in Taiwan. (During winter break, I plan to make the Southeast Asia backpacking circuit; I wouldn’t say I’m particularly raging to go, but it’s just something you have to do if you’re in Asia). I hope that by then, I’ll be satisfied with my experience of living in this charming little country, and ready to move onto other things. 

 I ended up going on two trips during winter break - one was indeed in Southeast Asia: a two-week backpacking adventure through Vietnam, and a beach vacation in Boracay. My premonitions about Southeast Asia turned out to be fairly untrue – I didn’t meet the kind of wild, no limits backpacker partying that I expected; Vietnam isn’t really the place for that. The food was divine. However, I didn’t like the feel of Ho Chi Minh (which is, I presume, quite similar to other Southeast Asian cities, bar Singapore) – and looking back, I remember being pretty damn glad to get out of Vietnam. Taiwan, I loved as much as I always have – but I did indeed find myself ready to move on.

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(Two) 2014-2015: My study abroad year in Europe. (In the summer, I hope to go to French language school! Or a design program for the summer.) Many of my friends rolled their eyes when I announced that I was studying abroad, but thankfully, it’s actually a program requirement for graduation. However, I don’t expect my time abroad to be all fun & games: since I won’t have many credits left at that time due to the insane courseload I’m shouldering now (I’ll have….15 credits for the whole year, maybe?)–I actually plan on doing a serious internship (in what? Oh, that’s definitely another post). Of course, this will mean that I can’t have the wild study-abroad experience everyone dreams of, but that was never really in my dreams anyhow.

French language school? Design program? Girl. Looking at this now, I have no idea where these thoughts came from. I am not remotely interested in French culture, nor am I looking to pursue a career in design. Was it something I had been eating…? I did learn Photoshop though – vaguely. Well, I’m currently in Sweden, which is in Europe – but as for that European internship? No internships to be found in small-town Uppsala. I am, however, working as a remote contractor for a wonderful little travel-app startup in Hong Kong. And that leads me to my next development –

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(Three) 2015-2016: This is where it gets dicey. Hopefully by now I’ve gotten by degree from National Taiwan University & ready to move on to higher education. I would love to apply for a Fulbright, but only if there’s some kind of topic that I’m fascinated with; and can present a serious research proposal for. And if not? I’ve always intended to get my Master’s, and I’m eyeing a one-year program in East Asian Studies at Yale University. I know that it’s a high goal, but I’m deeply interested in contemporary Taiwanese fiction & since I have to get a Master’s in something (no MBAs for me!), why not at an Ivy?

I am still just so dumbfounded, reading this. These plans seem like they were written by a different person. I think I was in my serious student, academia – phase, which I suppose suffused me with a serious sense of self-importance. Yale? I don’t even plan to pursue higher education, and a college degree will certainly not help with my career plans at the moment – in fact, I don’t know if I’ll be graduating as quickly as I anticipated. I’ve swapped contemporary Taiwanese fiction (ha!) for lifestyle-reporting, wanderlust-planning, and a “deep interest” in the interesting lives of urbane, cosmopolitan entrepreneurs, creatives, and general hustlers in cities all over the world.

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Four, Five) 2016-2017: My best friend and I have long been discussing which cities we’d like to live & work in when we’re young. I’ve personally narrowed down the choices to Shanghai, Melbourne, London. Armed with a master’s degree, I’m really hoping that we can both find jobs there.

Ah – how quickly our lives and loves changes, when we’re young. Suffice to say, this “best friend” and I are no longer even on speaking terms. I doubt that I will be moving to Shanghai – I visited Beijing decided once and for all that I will not be making the move to China, as much as I love East Asia. I did have a little flirtation with doing my second exchange semester in Melbourne, but the cost was prohibitive – am not flirting with the idea of going there on one of those working holidays. London? Visited during the summer – simply did not like. Could not see myself living there. Instead, where am I heading, as a drop-off point (as in, I’m walking there, as to the end of a diving board, and from there I’ll drop off to who knows where?)

Hong Kong.

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Who would have thought? As I detailed before, I’ve always hated Hong Kong – the city’s hedonistic history & present has become a drug; something I crave. Combined with a fringe health food / beach-bum / sustainable lifestyle culture, I was sold. And only an hour’s flight away from my beloved Taipei, which draws me back like a magnet; like the pull of the moon. Going to try the Hong Kong hustle for at least half a year as I complete the final exchange semester requirement for my degree – and then the drop off.

I’m done making plans - they only make me laugh. 

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Meanwhile, I’ll continue to spend my (rather free) European exchange semester, which runs until Christmas of this year, as a sort of “audition” for future cities. As an avid blog-reader / day-dreamer / wishful thinker, I’ve always had a list of cities that I hope to live in someday. These few months will be slowly crossing them off the list / “dating” them, I suppose you could say – for a few days, weeks – and seeing if anything falls into place. Here are the ones I crossed off last summer – London / Paris / Rome / Reykjavik. On this trip, I’ve already crossed off Stockholm / Berlin (although I’m due to give the city a second chance, soon). Current shortlist: Copenhagen / Prague / Edinburgh / Lisbon / Marrakech

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